Ingapirca to Cuenca

The hostel I stayed in at Ingapirca was basic but owned by a lovely couple who were very welcoming. I arrived muddy and soaked to the core and they gave me a delicious meal of locro de papa (Ecuadorian potato soup) and a whole trout. Again the night and food only cost 16 dollars. This time though I couldn't quite bring myself to shower. I've had many cold showers in my life, sometimes I even prefer it, but this one was ice cold, literally. It took my breath away. There was no way.

On Sunday, I woke up to more wind and rain, but it gradually eased off and I finally went out to visit the ruins properly. I had a guided tour with a very nice lady who, in-between telling me about the ruins, talked to me about politics in Ecuador, asked me about the British government and the role of the Queen, and told me that we are much more sensible in Europe about contraception and choosing when to have children. It was well worth the six dollars entrance fee.

Ingapirca is an archeological site and means Inca walls in quechua. The area was occupied by the Cañaris for about 500 years before the Incas arrived, and what surprised me the most as the guide was telling me about this was that the two populations lived together in harmony* and the architecture demonstrates both Cañari and Inca influence. The construction of Ingapirca began in the 1490s shortly after the Inca leader Huayna Capac conquered the area now known as Ecuador. Excavation of the ruins began in the late 1960s.

I caught the bus at Ingapirca in the afternoon to go to Cuenca. If you can manage not to be too on edge about the possibility of your bag being stolen from the hold at each stop, Ecuadorian buses can be fun and more than a means of transport. Music is always playing, the views are generally pretty spectacular, and you will never go hungry as people get on and off selling food. As I sat there with my plate of chips enjoying the countryside, I felt quite content. The only thing I was craving after a week long of strenuous hiking was a beer. And I was looking forward to arriving in Cuenca and having one.

hostel las Cabañas

my cabaña

remaining portion of the Inca road

temple of the sun

Inca trapezoidal doorway

temple of the sun

old and new Ingapirca

elliptical platform of temple of the sun

the Inca face

typical view along bus routes

*I've read mixed reports on this since but this was the guides's take on things and it could be that eventually this was indeed the case.